Na Flip de Portugal

Na Flip de Portugal

Na Flip de Portugal

Uma das maiores experts em comunicação no Brasil, Roberta Paixão esteve em setembro na mais recente edição do Folio, o Festival  Literário Internacional de Óbidos, uma espécie de versão portuguesa da nossa Flip. Assim como a conhecida feira literária de Paraty, o Folio promove encontros, debates e trocas de ideias com escritores do primeiro time mundial, tendo  a maravilha de cenário de uma cidade histórica como pano de fundo. Leia abaixo como foi a experiência dela:

Só quem passou a infância em fazenda com antepassados portugueses entenderia a sensação que tive ao deitar na cama de madeira escura talhada e forrada com lençol branco, limpo e arrumadinho. Era como se eu estivesse na casa da minha bisavó em Cardoso Moreira. Simples, mas autêntico português, o sobrado de três andares de dona Leonildes foi uma descoberta no Airbnb e abriu com chave de ouro a minha temporada de dez dias no Folio 2016, o festival internacional de literatura que há dois anos acontece em Óbidos, Portugal, no fim de setembro.

Vista das muralhas do castelo de Óbidos

Abraçada pela muralha de 1500 metros de extensão e um castelo inteiro, tomado dos árabes no século XII, Óbidos não esconde segredos. Tem orgulho de se expor ao máximo. São museus, restaurantes, hotéis, igrejas, padarias, galerias e muitas lojinhas que distraem viajantes, tanto os que apenas passam por ali como aqueles, como eu, que aportam por mais tempo. Nas ruelas de chão de pedra, ladeadas por casas coloniais brancas e janelas e portas coloridas, esbarra-se em boas descobertas como a padaria Capinha d´Óbidos (pães que vemos serem feitos na hora) ou mesmo uma simples árvore florida ou flor em vasinhos – Buganvílias roxas e rosas e Gerânios fazem a cena para fotografias de Instagram.

Cartaz da edição deste ano do festival

Diante do aquecimento turístico na região e da crise econômica que pegou Portugal e a Europa, a minha anfitriã Leonildes, aposentada e viúva, foi apresentada ao site de hospedagem pela neta Joana e nele encontrou a nova fonte de renda – já são cinco suítes alugadas por 20 euros por dia. Vale dizer que o inconveniente de ficar em Amoreiras, a cinco quilômetros de Óbidos, tornou-se uma vantagem pelo convívio com moradores da típica aldeia portuguesa. O taxista, seu Arlindo, fazia a viagem de ida e volta por 18 euros por dia a hora que fosse, mas há ônibus mais baratinhos ou uma carona para os mais aventureiros.

Em Óbidos, durante o Folio, há chances de esbarrar com todos os tipos de celebridades do presidente da República, que abriu e fechou a feira, até o escritor polêmico e engraçado (ele é surpreendentemente engraçado, juro), Salman Rushdie. Tiete, como sou, fui a primeira da fila para entrar na palestra de Rushdie que teve lotação máxima. Não menos importante, o nobel VS Naipaul subiu ao palco em cadeiras de roda. O escritor falou pouco, mas sua imagem disse muito sobre a fragilidade humana, tema que está em seus romances – o brinde foi a esposa Nadira que contou histórias que precederam e inspiraram os livros do escritor.

Eleita pela UNESCO como cidade literária, Óbidos é tomada por livros durante o Folio. As editoras portuguesas montam tendas e ocupam até igrejas para expor seus títulos. Em pequenas sondagens, achei livros muito bons por unidades de euro – a mala ficou pesada! O hotel Literary Man se destaca por uma curiosidade. Antigo convento, ele tem cerca de 60 mil livros espalhados que estão disponíveis para qualquer pessoa. É um bom refúgio para leitura nos intervalos das palestras e cursos – o Folio também oferece pequenos cursos das Universidades de Lisboa e Nova de graça que ocupam estes hiatos.

À noite, o céu estreladíssimo se combina com as luzes amarelas da muralha. Há shows para todos desde Bernardo Lobo até o fadista Camané, além de baladas com DJs. Para jantar varia-se em restaurantes de hotéis ou na rua principal, a Rua Direita – que fica à esquerda da entrada da fortaleza e onde pode-se encontrar cardápios mais perto da culinária portuguesa (O Alcaide) ou internacional (Tasca Torta). Há dois restaurantes imperdíveis na cidadela. Na Pousada do Castelo, o cardápio é bom e tem uma vista extraordinária de Óbidos e além. Mas é em A Nova Casa de Ramiro que se encontra a melhor cozinha com um ambiente decorado como se fosse a sala de uma casa – tem lareira, sofás e paredes das típicas pedras do lugarejo. O bacalhau é uma delícia, e as indicações de vinho perfeitas.

As vielas fofas de Óbidos

Voltando à Pousada do Castelo, destaca-se o perfeito estado do castelo que habitou reis e rainhas – Óbidos foi objeto de dote de muitas destas rainhas. É o mais suntuoso da vila com decoração que remete aos tempos medievais. Os quartos fazem o hóspede sentir-se como os antigos habitantes em camas de dossel, lareira e armaduras (aviso importante: esbarra-se com elas a cada metro, não se assustem) sem deixar de lado o conforto do nosso século.

Além das duas estrelas da literatura mundial, o Folio deste ano convidou o islandês Jón Kalman Stefásson, o americano radicado em Portugal, Richard Zimler (best-seller na Europa que escreve romances históricos), os brasileiros Bernardo Carvalho e Eucanãa Ferraz, entre outros de todo o mundo, para compartilharem suas ideias sobre conflitos, política, preconceito sobre minorias e principalmente literatura de todos os gêneros. A curadoria foi do premiado escritor angolano José Eduardo Agualusa, que, sempre vestido de preto ou azul marino e boina preta, sentava-se no fundo das palestras e passava o tempo desenhando a cena do palco com lápis ou caneta, em sua Moleskine.

Ao lado da tenda principal na Praça da Matriz, o Lounge Café me refugiou muitas vezes, e os atendentes tornaram-se uma família naqueles dias. Lucia, a simpática dona do café, sabia até que tenho intolerância à lactose e, quando uma tosse cavalar tomou conta de mim, ela me recomendou ir ao médico em Caldas da Rainha, outra cidade pertinho que não tem muita graça, mas uma melhor infraestrutura. Recomendação obedecida na mesma hora.

Participar do Folio é alimentar a alma com pessoas, livros, arquitetura, museus, música, enfim, cultura nos sentidos arte e social. E estendendo o clichê para o corpo: alimentá-lo com uma culinária maravilhosa e uma Ginjinha (licor feito com ginja, uma cereja selvagem da região) ou, para o meu gosto, um vinho tinto português.

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